Return
to Sea and Sky Aviation Page
Last revised on October 6th. Updated information on owner-maintenence.
This document attempts to answer common questions asked by newcomers
to
the rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup, or those curious individuals
unfamiliar with the domain of homebuilt aircraft. It assumes that the
reader already possesses limited familiarity with aviation in general.
It is not meant to answer any and all questions, but it is intended
to
give the reader a foundation upon which to learn more on their own.
The
article is laced with the author's perception of "conventional wisdom",
which does tend to change as time passes.
The following questions are answered in this FAQ:
Q301: What is the Experimental category, and what types of aircraft
are
classified/operated in that category?
Q302: What is a kit airplane versus a plans-built airplane?
Q303: What separates a homebuilt from an ultralight?
Q304: Why would someone want to build and fly a homebuilt when perfectly
good certified aircraft are available?
Q305: What is the 51% rule, and how does it affect me?
Q306: What are some common experimental types, kit-built or not?
Q307: What are the tradeoffs of metal vs wood vs composites?
Q308: What types of engines can I use?
Q309: Why do pilots get so upset over the choices between two and four
stroke engines?
Q310: Can I use non-certified props?
Q311: How do I license my completed airplane, and what inspections
are
needed?
Q312: How are registration numbers assigned, and can I choose one?
Q313: Can I type-certify my airplane?
Q314: If I sell the airplane, am I liable for it later?
|Q315: What operations are illegal in my homebuilt that might not be
in a type-certified airplane?
Q316: What happens if I buy a homebuilt that I didn't build?
Q317: Can I insure a homebuilt airplane?
Q318: Am I safe flying a homebuilt airplane?
Q319: What health hazards might be involved while building?
Q320: What design should I choose?
Q321: Where can I see one of my choices, and can I fly one?
Q322: How long will it take to finish?
Q323: How do I know if I can afford it?
Q324: What tools and facilities will I need?
Q325: Will my marriage survive?
Q326: How do my maintenance costs compare to a certified airplane?
Q327: Who is the EAA, and what do they offer me?
How can I join, and are there
any local builder clubs?
Q328: Where can I find parts or materials for my project?
Q329: Can I find more written info?
Q330: [Deleted]
Q331: Is there anyone on Usenet who knows about the GarageRocket 432?
Q332: I'm having trouble with construction, where can I get help?
Q333: What financing is available for building a plane?
Q334: Can I take lessons/get my license in my homebuilt?
The core of this FAQ was written by Steve Cornelius (formerly at
scornelius@ips.iacd.honeywell.com) with updates by Ron Wanttaja
(ron@wanttaja.com). Comments, corrections, or suggestions always
welcome, please forward them to ron@wanttaja.com.
Vast helpful assistance and input was provided by:
scornelius@ips.iacd.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
randys@cv.hp.com (Randy Stockberger)
charles.k.scott@dartmouth.edu (Corky Scott)
venky@bellcore.com (G A Venkatesh - "venky")
----------------------------------
Subject: Legal category
Q301: What is the Experimental category, and what types of aircraft
are
classified/operated in that category?
A: The Experimental category is essentially an "operating
classification" that has a legal
bearing on the operation of the
aircraft, just like Normal, Utility,
or Aerobatic categories have.
There are several sub-classifications
in the category, such as
Amateur-built, Racing, Exhibition,
Limited, R & D, and others.
Experimental/amateur-built aircraft
are the primary emphasis in
this newsgroup. It refers to non-type-certified
aircraft that are
built, maintained, and flown by
individuals, thus the term
"homebuilt". Amateur-built aircraft
are intended by the FAA to
serve as educational "vehicles"
for their builders and pilots.
(sorry 'bout that pun...)
The original justification for
making the category legal was that
it increased the pool of individuals
knowledgeable in the area of
aircraft production. Thus the
nation had "experts" in aircraft
production to draw upon in times
of national emergency. Silly as
this may sound today, it was taken
seriously in the mid '50s when
the category addition was being
proposed.
Note that a type-certified airplane
may also be re-categorized as
experimental if it's modified
in a form such that the FAA will not
approve on a standard 337. This
is often the case for prototype/
modified certified aircraft, or
for highly specialized
applications (although these are
often categorized as "Restricted"
too).
----------------------------------
Subject: Kit Airplanes
Q302: What is a kit airplane versus a plans-built airplane?
A: Kit airplanes are aircraft designs that are sold
as a package of
parts and subassemblies to be
assembled by the owner. They are
primarily a market response to
the lack of new and affordable
type-certified production aircraft.
The kit attempts to strike a
balance between those desiring
a finished airplane, versus those
wanting to build. They also allow
people to build a new aircraft
when they may not possess the
time or ability to build from
scratch. Cost of a kit airplane
is generally higher than that of
plans-built.
The "plans-built" aircraft is scratch
built from a set of
engineering drawings only, the
builder makes most all of the parts
from raw materials. This was the
"original" form of homebuilding.
These take longer to complete
than a kit airplane, but can also be
less expensive and more rewarding
to those who enjoy building. For
the popular designs, quite a few
prefab parts do exist, especially
the ones that are too difficult
or costly to fabricate yourself.
The term "kitplane" is commonly
used for kit aircraft, but the
term itself is trademarked by
KITPLANES magazine.
----------------------------------
Subject: Homebuilt .vs. Ultralight
Q303: What separates a homebuilt from an ultralight?
A: Ultralights and Experimentals may both be built
by the owner, but
the ultralight may carry no passengers
(except for instruction).
It also has limits on weight,
speed, and fuel, which the homebuilt
has none of (outside of operating
restrictions in part 91).
Often, licensed ultralight owners
have chosen to obtain
airworthiness certificates so
that they can overcome one or more
of these restrictions. This reclassifies
the ultralight as an
experimental, and the pilot certificate,
medical, and currency
requirements become effective.
----------------------------------
Subject: Homebuilt .vs. Certified
Q304: Why would someone want to build and fly a homebuilt when perfectly
good certified aircraft are available?
A: In a sense, Cessnas & Pipers can be compared
to older Chevys and
Fords, in that they attempt to
be "all things to all people". Such
compromises may be acceptable
for most, but not all pilots.
One of the remarkable things about
homebuilts is the sheer
diversity of designs & intended
purposes. There are some compact
aircraft that store in your garage
and fly off of any short field.
Right next to it might be another
that carries 4 people 300mph at
18,000 ft. Next to that one is
one that cost less that $10K to
build. Another could be flown
in unlimited-class aerobatics.
Note that your garden variety Skyhawk
can't do any of these
things, but it's still a quite
a useful & desirable airplane. It
all depends on what you want it
to do.
----------------------------------
Subject: FAA 51% Rule
|Q305: What is the 51% rule, and how does it affect me?
A: In order for an aircraft to qualify as amateur-built,
at least
half the fabrication and assembly
must be done for recreational
and/or educational purposes.
A common misconception is that
a single *builder* must perform 51%
of the work. That is not
the case. To quote FAR 21.191, "...the
major portion of which has been
fabricated and assembled by
persons who undertook the construction
project solely for their
own education or recreation."
Note the plural..."persons."
You can buy a partially-completed
project, finish it, and get it
certified as amateur-built, even
if you, yourself, didn't do 51%
of the work. However, you will
still need to prove that "amateurs"
did the majority of the work.
If you buy a partially-completed
project, get the previous
builders' photos and builders
log.
The definition of "the major portion...fabricated
and assembled"
has been undergoing changes over
the years. Currently, the
FAA has been taking more of a
"task" orientation on this issue:
The builder might have to construct
a rib, for instance, to learn
how to do that task, but the FAA
is not currently requiring the
builder to repeat that process
on the remaining ribs. This logic
has resulted in the approval of
a number of "quick build" kits
that would have been unthinkable
in the 70s or 80s.
The original genesis of the "51%
Rule" (the FARs don't define
a percentage, they merely say
"the majority." The FAA interprets
this as 51%) came back in the
early days, when people would
perform modifications to production
aircraft and apply for
certification as amateur-built.
Before the promulgation
of the "majority" clause, you'd
see J-3 Cubs converted to
mid-wings, etc. certified as homebuilts.
The first major update to the 51%
rule came with the original
Christen Eagle. An FAA official
insisted that Frank Christenson's
biplane kit was too complete,
that the builder didn't need to do
enough work. Frank went
to some length to prove to the FAA that
this wasn't true.
Now the FAA maintains a list of
"approved" kits that have been
proven to comply with the 51%
rule. Note that a kit does *not*
need to be on the list to be legally
sold, it just serves as proof
to the FAA that the type complies
with the rule. Some kit
suppliers opt not to put their
products on the list, the reason
being that once approved, any
changes to the product require
reapproval by the FAA. If your
kit is not on the list, you will
have to prove 51% compliance at
inspection time.
The inspector does his job based
on a set of guidelines published
in the "inspectors handbook" issued
by the FAA to their field
inspectors. The guidelines for
the 51% rule are established in
this handbook. All decisions made
by the inspector are effectively
determinations "by the Administrator"
(if you're familiar with the
FARs, you'll understand the phrase
immediately :).
You can download the list of kits
approved under the 51% rule
from http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/ama-kit.pdf.
This is
an Adobe Acrobat file; free readers
are available from a number
of sources.
----------------------------------
Subject: Types
Q306: What are some common experimental types, kit-built or not?
A: Sorry, the list is just too long for the scope of a FAQ.
Keep an eye on the many magazines
which cater to homebuilders;
any book magazine stand should
carry a wide selection. All
run advertisements by both designers
and builders, so try to
follow them for a while.
----------------------------------
Subject: Materials
Q307: What are the tradeoffs of metal vs wood vs composites?
A: This can be a heated subject amongst builders,
we'll try to
approach the subject generally
and gracefully.
Metal construction has the widest
acceptance by the non-aviating
public. It is relatively simple
to work with, and is inexpensive.
A metal structure is strong and
of moderate weight and cost. But
with improper care it corrodes,
and events (like the Hawaiian 737
that lost its top) have reminded
us that metal does have a finite
fatigue life.
Wood is the oldest aircraft structural
material, but has a poor
public acceptance. The strength-to-weight
ratio and fatigue
resistance of wood is excellent,
the problem is simply its
susceptibility to rot. Properly
protected and stored, a wooden
airframe will last decades. But
if not cared for, it will be
destroyed in a few short years.
Wood also tends to be expensive,
and the supply is erratic.
Composites, "compost" jokes aside,
have received much attention
recently from private and commercial
builders alike, largely due
to work done a few years ago by
Burt Rutan. Composite aircraft can
be quite strong structurally,
and be built at very reasonable
costs.
The airplanes have very low drag
figures and beautiful finishes.
It is easy to work with. But there
are concerns about longevity of
the material. Most resins create
an airframe that must be painted
white to prevent excessive heat
buildup in the sunshine, since
epoxies and vinylesters soften
significantly with an increase in
temperature.
All methods are perfectly viable.
Which one you choose all depends
on your preferences, abilities,
and your needs for the airplane.
----------------------------------
Subject: Powerplants
Q308: What types of engines can I use?
A: Literally any! For years, homebuilders have relied
on certified
engines. But as the cost of these
engines rises, alternatives have
been found. Several companies
are building specialty engines
specifically for experimental
use, and others are hard at work
adapting automotive engines.
The Rotax engines have received
lots of attention. There are both
two and four stroke geared engines
for experimental use and most
are water cooled. All are fairly
reasonable in cost compared to
their certified counterparts.
These products develop power in the
40 to 100hp category.
Some builders are enthusiastic
about auto conversions, some are
not. Early on, a few builders
were pulling engines out of junked
autos with poor results. Untuned
engines were not ready for such
high-manifold pressure operations
and suffered burnt plugs, blown
pistons, etc. But other builders
have taken the time to customize
and tune auto engines to the application,
and the results are
improving. The all-aluminum small-block
Chevrolet is becoming the
poor-mans "Mini Merlin" and produces
excellent power (not to
mention sound!). Some are also
experimenting with Wankel-type
rotaries, as their power-to-weight
ratio and physical compactness
make them excellent candidates
for aircraft use. Power in auto
conversions can run from 80 to
400+ hp.
Water-cooled engines aside, builders
have used air-cooled
Volkswagen conversions for years,
and several companies are now
producing parts and completed
engines. One company
actually had one of their VW Type
IV engines certified in
Australia. VW engines sound similar
to their Lycoming or
Continental counterparts but rev
higher, in the 3100rpm range.
Modified stock crankshafts seem
to show a tendency to break, but
the custom cranks do better (and
cost more). Parts are usually
reasonable (but notice I didn't
say "cheap").
If you are looking for an IFR cruiser
to carry passengers, it may
be best to stick with certified
engines and swallow the cost. But
if your purpose is a VFR weekend
toy with good forced-landing
options and you like to tinker
with motors, you might consider a
conversion. Again, your choice
really depends on the mission.
A word of warning: When choosing
a certified engine, the engine
must be equipped and maintained
as it normally would be for a
certified aircraft. This means
that all AD and bulletins must be
complied with. This can have some
impact on your flight test
period. If you make any mods to
such an engine, it will be
considered a non-certified engine
for all intents and purposes by
the FAA, which will increase the
test period from 25 to 40 hours.
It will also reduce the market
value
of an otherwise expensive
engine.
----------------------------------
Subject: Powerplant types
Q309: Why do pilots get so upset over the choices between two and four
stroke engines?
A: The four-stroke air-cooled engine has been the
mainstay of light
aviation for over 50 years and
this shows no immediate signs of
change. Yet some two-stroke designs
have attracted strong
followings in recent years. Why
has this happened?
The two most obvious factors are
probably cost and weight. A 65hp
Rotax costs and weighs roughly
60% of its certified Continental
A-65 counterpart. For the newer
generation of "portable"
lightplanes, this reduced weight
is an obvious design advantage.
The owners of these types often
have to be conservative with their
flying dollars as well, so the
Rotax wins over many of them. When
they consider that it can be majored
by the owner in his garage
for a few hundred dollars in an
afternoon, the decision is easily
made.
Yet there are pilots out there
who think of the idea of a
"chainsaw" engine as anathema
to a proper aircraft. Improper
mixture control in a two-stroke
can damage the engine quickly. The
vibration through the airframe
is of a higher pitch. The higher
operating speed of the engine
requires a geared speed reduction
system. Probably the worst offense:
the sound of two-stroke
aircraft is simply unpleasant
to some eardrums.
The reliability questions of two-strokes
may have some basis. Then
again, it is often found that
problems resulted from improper
installation, operation, or maintenance.
Possibly there is truth
here, since the $10,000 certified
engine understandably gets
"fussed" over considerably more.
Its care and feeding are well
understood by most pilots since
we are usually trained behind
such engines anyway.
Should you choose a two-stroke?
Again, it all depends on your
preferences and requirements.
If you need more than 65hp, your
decision is essentially made for
now. But if it's a consideration
for you, study your options and
carefully evaluate your needs.
Ride behind both and see if you're
comfortable with them.
----------------------------------
Subject: Propellers
Q310: Can I use non-certified props?
A: Absolutely. You can use certified, original, or modified props.
----------------------------------
Subject: Licensing
Q311: How do I license my completed airplane, and what inspections are
needed?
A: You *did* document the construction, didn't you?
Before you are issued an airworthiness
certificate, an FAA
inspector will require an inspection
of the aircraft and all
documentation of its construction.
They used to require a
"pre-cover inspection of the internal
structure, but no longer.
Now they prefer that in-progress
inspections are done by an EAA
Technical Counselor, and the inspector
will look for his/her
comments in the construction log.
When the FAA inspector arrives,
they expect the aircraft to be
ready for inspection (all covers
removed), all taxi tests done
and logged, and all documentation
ready for review.
When the inspector is satisfied
that your airplane is ready for
inflight testing, they will issue
a restricted airworthiness
certificate that describes a test
period and testing requirements
(or they may insist on changes
or repairs if deficiencies are
noted). The testing period is
usually 40 flying hours (often 25 if
you use a certified engine &
prop), and limits you to a fixed
testing area, normally a 25 mile
radius from the home airport and
over unpopulated areas. Passengers
are not allowed during the
testing period. While testing,
keep a *detailed* log of all
activities, repairs, and changes.
The inspector will evaluate your
testing at the end of the
test period, at which point he
or she will issue a permanent
airworthiness certificate.
At that point, you are free to carry
passengers and fly most anywhere
you like.
If any major modifications or repairs
are done later, the airplane
may need a re-inspection and retest.
Call your local FSDO before
doing this to find out what they
want to see.
You can also be issued a Repairmans
Certificate for your airplane
only (*not* the type in general).
This allows you to perform all
repairs, inspections, annuals,
etc. on the airframe, since they
figure if you built it, you should
be able to fix it. Note that in
FAR part 45, an "annual" is referred
to as a "condition check",
which is legally different from
an "annual inspection", even if
both actions are intended to accomplish
the same goal.
Please note that the above information
is valid only in the USA,
other countries usually have very
similar requirements, with some
slight differences. Check with
your local authorities before
committing any large sums of money
or time to a project.
Also note that this procedure is
the general case. It is entirely
possible that you may experience
variations in the procedure. For
instance, one netter commented
that his inspector waived the
second inspection and allowed
standard experimental privileges
immediately after the test time
was flown off and logged. As FAA
policy often varies between regions,
expect some slight
exceptions.
----------------------------------
Subject: Registration
Q312: How are registration numbers assigned, and can I choose one?
A: N numbers in the US are assigned by the FAA Aircraft
Registry in
Oklahoma City. You must get one
assigned before you have your
finished airplane inspected. It's
sometimes suggested that you
wait until about 6 months before
estimated completion, since they
will charge you an annual fee
for reserving a number.
Requesting an assigned number will
cost $5. If you want to request
a special number, it costs $10.
If you request one, they suggest
you submit a list of choices,
like 5 or so in order of your
preference.
----------------------------------
Subject: Certification
Q313: Can I type-certify my airplane?
A: Not recommended. The costs are extremely prohibitive
(which is
often why the designers refuse
to do it), and there is little
benefit. Remember that the only
major restriction on experimental
operations is use of the aircraft
for hire.
----------------------------------
Subject: Liability
Q314: If I sell the airplane, am I liable for it later?
A: Unfortunately, there is potential for a liability
problem. Even
though "free" legal advice is
often available on the net, I advise
you to contact your attorney if
you find this issue troubling.
Some advocate having the buyer
sign a "release form", which
would be promise not to sue if
anything goes wrong. These
are essentially worthless... the
buyer can't sign over his or
her *spouse's* rights, nor those
of any one he or she sells
the airplane to.
----------------------------------
Subject: Legal operations
Q315: What operations are illegal in my homebuilt that might not be
in a type-certified airplane?
A: Operations for hire are *expressly* forbidden -
no paid cargo or
passengers are permitted.
You cannot "lease back" the aircraft
to a local FBO.
This is not as restrictive as you
might think. Often clubs are
formed around homebuilt aircraft,
and it is legal for you to pay
an instructor to give you a checkout
or BFR in your airplane. The FAA
also now allows homebuilt to be
rented as part of a pilot checkout.
Formerly, operations over "congested
areas" was also forbidden, but
the FAA is now issuing operating
limitations that do not include
this ban.
So in general, you can do most
anything with your homebuilt that
you can do with normal private
pilot privileges.
----------------------------------
Subject: Purchase
Q316: What happens if I buy a homebuilt that I didn't build?
A: You get poor, like all airplane owners :) Anyway,
you will not
be able to obtain a repairman
certificate, since you didn't
build the airplane. The
airplane can be inspected and maintained
by an A&P... an Inspection
Authorization is not required. Also,
if the original owner retains
his or her Repairman Certificate,
they can continue working on your
plane...that is, if you can
talk them into it.
You, as the owner, are allowed
to perform all the maintenance
and repair of the aircraft.
Whoever performs the next condition
inspection (the builder or an
A&P) will essentially sign-off your
work at that time.
In other words, the A&P's annual
inspection not only covers the
inspection of the airplane, but
it counts as the yearly signoff
for work done by the owner in
the past year. An EAA article on
this agreement can be found at
http://www.wanttaja.com/avlinks/maint.htm
Parts for kit airplanes may or
may not be available depending on
the source. For either kit or
plans-built, one thing to insist
upon is having the plans in your
possession or available. This way
should a part need to be fabricated
later, you still have the
specs to do it by.
----------------------------------
Subject: Insurance
Q317: Can I insure a homebuilt airplane?
A: Yes you can. The insurance company may have their
own requirements
above the FARs, but they normally
will insure one. You may find
lower limits on passenger liability
coverage though.
However, there is a growing problem
with higher performance
kit airplanes such as the Glasair
III, Lancair IV, 320, and 235. A
significant number of pilots have
bought into these designs since
they offer performance levels
in excess of that available from
Wichita. In an unfortunate few
cases there has been poor
construction, and little to no
training in aircraft that fly far
ahead of the average 172 or Cherokee
pilot.
One example of changes: Where fast
kit airplanes are concerned, a
major aviation insurance company
is insisting on periodic
construction inspections by company
reps, and thorough checkouts
in type (+10hrs) before they will
underwrite a policy for that
aircraft. Check this out
before you make a commitment.
----------------------------------
Subject: Flight safety
Q318: Am I safe flying a homebuilt airplane?
A: You are as safe as you want to be. Little definitive
data exists
comparing homebuilts to certified
aircraft. One set of opinions
holds that accident rates are
about the same for both certified
and homebuilt aircraft, once the
test period for the homebuilt is
complete. Certified aircraft seem
to have more unintentional IMC
accidents, while homebuilts fare
worse in accidents resulting from
over-stress from aerobatics, forced
landings, etc.
Safety is still a function of the
pilots ability to make
intelligent decisions, as with
all aviation.
----------------------------------
Subject: Builder safety
Q319: What health hazards might be involved while building?
A: The most obvious hazards are those involved with
common shop
practices, such as wearing protective
lenses, handling power tools
properly, etc. Follow common sense
in shop practice, and you
should be just as safe as if you
were building household
furniture.
However, a more subtle danger exists
where chemicals are
concerned. Composite structures
require handling of chemical
resins that are more exotic that
simple adhesives. Paint systems
also require extra care. Epoxies
and Polyurethane finishes pose
the worst problem.
Epoxies emit fumes that, while
annoying, seem generally harmless
at first. But after exposure,
your body builds an allergic
reaction to the substance. Once
that threshold has been crossed,
you will be "sensitized" for the
rest of your life. The isocyanate
content of polyurethane paint
can trigger severe respiratory spasms
once you become sensitized to
them. Again, the reaction potential
never goes away. Some paint and
primer products also have
carcinogenic potentials as well.
The solution is skin and respiratory
protection, and good
ventilation of the shop. *All*
paints require at least filter
respiration, isocyanate based
paints require a fresh-air system as
well. Wear protective gloves and
eyewear. Above all, put an
exhaust fan in your shop and use
it, so as not to affect the whole
household.
Before you open an unfamiliar substance,
read *all* the supplier's
warnings about protection. If
you don't understand them, the
supplier should be happy to explain
the requirements. Whatever you
do, *please* don't ignore those
precautions.
You may invest years and thousands
of dollars in your airplane.
Make sure you're still healthy
enough to fly it when the time
comes.
----------------------------------
Subject: Choosing a project
Q320: What design should I choose?
A: It's all up to the individual, but I'd highly suggest
that you pay
particular attention to the following
2 items:
(1) Your desired mission for your
airplane.
(2) Your available resources (money,
space, ability, etc.)
Once you've a realistic and unemotional
(!) handle on these items,
start checking out designs until
you find 2 or 3 designs that fit
your situation best. Then go ahead
and start checking out
differences between them. Don't
dwell too much on factors like
"I've never done any welding" since
you're going to have to learn
to do lots of things you never
considered before. Also, designers'
claims for performance are often
"stretched" a bit, so wait to
talk to owners before making any
final decisions.
When you're at this point, it's
time to start checking out real
aircraft. This is where the fun
begins....
----------------------------------
Subject: Evaluating types
Q321: Where can I see one of my choices, and can I fly one?
A: Oshkosh is great place to see virtually everything
side-by-side,
but it's not the best place to
take a ride because of traffic. If
you do go to OSH, there will be
builders' forums, dinners, and
parties for type-specific gatherings.
Make sure you take advantage
of these. Same thing goes for
Sun'n'Fun if you can make that
instead.
Smaller fly-ins may be better for
taking a ride *if* your favorite
type shows up. If your pet design
is a little more obscure, it may
take some effort.
Once you've expressed interest
in a type (usually by buying the
$10-$20 "info pack"), the seller
may provide you with the
addresses & phones of customers
who are willing to demo. This is
not as unusual as one might think
- builders often love to show
off their toys! But if the design
is a single seater, forget the
ride.
For most popular kit airplanes,
the companies usually keep a
demonstrator around. You will
probably have to go to them unless
they are "touring" your area giving
demos.
Some people do actually build and
fly aircraft without ever having
seen or ridden in one. But if
there's a way to avoid that, do!
----------------------------------
Subject: Completion time
Q322: How long will it take to finish?
A: Always longer than you think! A well-known writer
in homebuilt
topics is often quoted as saying
"Firewall-forward is half the
work", and "The jobs you thought
were simple take forever, and the
jobs you thought were tough turn
out to be easy".
Designers often try to minimize
their estimates of completion time
for obvious reasons. And time
varies significantly with builder
skill and experience. So the best
way to estimate this is to talk
to other builders who have finished
their projects.
For simple fixed-gear kits, 500-1500
hours seems common. For
complex kit airplanes (such as
retractables) 1500-3000 is more
realistic. For plans-built airplanes,
anywhere from 1000-8000+
hours are involved. All of these
numbers are highly dependent on
the type, and on builder skills.
Don't be too dependant on "goal
fixation", take the time to do the
job right. Above all, don't push
it to try and get finished for a
major fly-in. The risks aren't
worth it. Besides, the better
attention you pay to small details
will make you feel all that
much better when you do fly it
to a big event.
----------------------------------
Subject: Completion cost
Q323: How do I know if I can afford it?
A: Well, if you have to ask....
The "nickel & dime" costs in
construction can really add up fast.
Generally, if the cost of a kit
is already a real stretch, you
have a problem. Sometimes the
finished cost of a kit airplane will
exceed twice the cost of the kit
itself.
Plan for this. Add up all the costs
you can think of, then add 20%
for the stuff you *didn't* know
about. Plan for contingencies: if
you make a mistake covering a
wing, you may have to redo it (the
price of learning how). Be realistic
with your estimations.
Scratch building is a little easier
in that your expectations have
to be lowered. You expect a certain
monthly amount to be spent
towards supplies, so you simply
buy what you can afford, and hope
that it stays ahead of your building
speed. You know that you're
trading time for money, and since
completion is so far away it
doesn't seem so obvious.
Again, talk to other builders,
and be honest with yourself about
what you can afford. An awful
lot of projects never get finished
because the money supply ran out.
----------------------------------
Subject: Builder requirements
Q324: What tools and facilities will I need?
A: Many designers will specify the tools needed for
construction in
their particular case. Again (sorry!)
other builders are also a
good source.
Every builder will need a set of
basic mechanics tools. Nothing
fancy, but cheap tools often cost
you money and time too. Another
shop accessory almost everyone
needs is a small portable (or
big :-) air compressor. For painting,
to cleaning parts, to
driving rivets, to general shop
cleanup, compressed air is a
welcome asset. A small variable
speed power drill is another
virtual necessity.
A small grinder and a drill press
are other useful items. For
wood, a small table saw and bandsaw
are indispensable. An orbital
sander is needed for wood and
composite finishing. Wood builders
simply *never* have enough clamps,
or so it seems. There are many,
many other items which are often
nice, but not necessarily
mandatory.
Builders often get quite carried
away with tools, and it's true
they can make a job easier and
faster. But if you're in a squeeze
for a particularly expensive tool,
think about how often you will
use it. It's entirely possible
that you're better off renting one,
or borrowing one from a friend.
It's often amazing to hear of the
places airplanes have been
created. One grand-champion airplane
from the '92 season was built
on the owners back patio! But
the favorite shop by far is the
ubiquitous suburban garage. Most
airplanes can have the majority
of the work done on components
in the garage, usually moving to
the hangar at the final assembly
stage.
Whatever space you use, make sure
it's well lighted and
ventilated. Composite aircraft
may require winter heat in order
for resins to cure properly. Above
all, make sure you can get the
assembly *out*of the shop before
you start. More than one builder
has had to "modify" his basement
to extract a completed wing....
----------------------------------
Subject: Marital discord
Q325: Will my marriage survive?
A: This is too often the sad joke on the prop-tags
at fly-ins: "Cost:
$64000 plus Linda" or "Brenda's
Nightmare" placarded on the panel.
We've also heard of cases where
a choice had to be made between
the lover and the airplane, and
the plane won. Such is the magnet
of aviation....
Discuss this at length with your
significant other. Explain the
commitment and be truthful. If
they fly, great! But if not,
seriously weigh the situation
and enter with his or her blessing.
Talk it over well with the kids
too, if you have them. Some of
them thrill at the idea of building
"our very own plane". Others
will think you've lost your mind.
Kids can be great helpers too.
What better way to prove to them
the practical value of education?
Consider establishing a planned
work schedule. This does two
things, it lets the family know
when you will be available, and
it helps keep your work habits
consistent (keeping you on track
to finish it).
Once started, don't forget dinners
out, long walks, helping the
kids with homework, and bathing
the dog. They all need you too.
Have the number of the nearest
florist on the shop wall, just in
case.
Then again, sometimes sanding the
perfect finish on an elevator
can make a lousy day disappear
in a hurry...
----------------------------------
Subject: Maintenance cost
Q326: How do my maintenance costs compare to a certified airplane?
A: Probably lower for the homebuilt, but it's not
an absolute
guarantee. Parts prices will be
far less, and if you're the
original builder, labor cost is
zero. But if your engine
installation or wiring has problems,
expensive parts can break in
a hurry.
Take care of it, and it should take care of you.
----------------------------------
Subject: Experimental Aircraft Association
Q327: Who is the EAA, and what do they offer me?
How can I join, and are there
any local builder clubs?
A: The Experimental Aircraft Association was formed
in the '50s for
the purpose of sharing information
amongst homebuilders.
Originally regional in scope,
the EAA rapidly grew in later years.
EAA headquarters in Oshkosh WI
is the sponsor and site of the
annual aviation party now known
worldwide simply as "Oshkosh".
The official term nowadays is
"Airventure" but the term has been
slow to take hold in the EAA rank-and-file.
EAA's political involvement is
somewhat different from the AOPA.
AOPA was formed in support of
all types of pilots, and tends to be
more of a pilot aid and lobbying
organization, while the EAA
focuses more on building and flying
for sport. This is not to say
that they don't take a political
stance for their membership,
however. They have been
active in the area of simplified
certification requirements for
new training aircraft, and they had
a part in the creation of auto-fuel
STCs for certified light
aircraft. Frankly, if you're a
pilot, both organizations deserve
your support.
The foundation of EAA's membership
support is through the
organization of hundreds of local
"chapters" where members get
together on a routine basis.
Some chapters have club-wide projects,
some stress education, and
some are only social in function.
Most have at least one
"Technical Counselor" that can
help you with your project, or
provide inspections. Involvement
with a chapter is not a bad idea
if you're just getting started.
I can't stress the function of
the Tech Counselor enough. If
you're about to begin a project,
you will need someone to check
out your work and sign the construction
log to effect. The
sooner you get to know these people,
the better off you'll be.
The membership office is at (800)322-2412.
The general office
number is (414)426-4800. If you
join, they will provide local
chapter info upon request. Their
address is:
EAA Aviation Center
P.O. Box 3086
Oshkosh, WI 54903-3086
http://www.eaa.org/
----------------------------------
Subject: Parts and Supplies
Q328: Where can I find parts or materials for my project?
A. Grab any homebuilder's magazine and scan the advertisements.
There are plenty of outfits just
itching to set you up.
----------------------------------
Subject: Books
Q329: Can I find more written info?
A: First, join the EAA. Among other benefits,
they have an
extensive catalog of books covering
homebuilding. Anything
written by Tony Bingelis is a
good start.
Available from the FAA (call your local FSDO) and suggested:
AC 20-27D - Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built Aircraft.
AC 90-89 - Amateur-Built
aircraft Flight Testing Handbook.
----------------------------------
Q330: [Deleted as obsolete]
----------------------------------
Subject: Other builders
Q331: Is there anyone on Usenet who knows about the GarageRocket 432?
A: A typical web search using Yahoo, Google, etc.
will usually yield
extensive information on any given
type.
----------------------------------
Subject: Finding Assistance:
Q332: I'm having trouble with construction, where can I get help?
A: If you're having trouble with plans or type-specific details:
The first place to check is with
the kit or plans supplier. They
may be able to assist over the
phone, or direct you to someone in
your area who has been through
this before. This also allows the
supplier to know where the weak
spots in their documentation are
so that it can be fixed later.
The local EAA chapter may know
of other builders of your type
nearby, or there may even be a
type club in the area. Check with
these groups also, they'll be
glad to assist.
If you're stuck on construction technique (welding, painting, etc):
Again, check with the local EAA
chapter for someone who has some
experience with the technique
causing you trouble. All of us end
up learning a few skills in the
course of construction, so don't
be afraid to ask for help when
it's needed. Remember, you'll be
trusting your life to the airplane,
so learn to do it right.
Certain skills will require practice,
so please don't run right
out and try things on a new airframe
first. If you're learning to
weld for instance, sacrifice some
tubing and practice on it until
the quality of your workmanship
becomes acceptable. It will be
cheaper and easier in the long
run. Save the samples also, the
inspector will feel better looking
at a "destructible" sample.
----------------------------------
Subject: Homebuilt Aircraft Financing
Q333: How can I finance my kit purchase?
A: The best way is to select a kit that either builds from
scratch
or is available as subkits. Financing
increases your cost quite
a bit.
Netters have identified two companies
which have financing
available for homebuilders. Here
are some of their terms, as
supplied in October, 1995:
NAFCO/EAA Finance Plan
(800) 999-3712
$10,000 minimum loan, no maximum.
They'll fund 70% of the total
cost for up to five years, then will
extend the loan until aircraft
completion. Loan rate is based
on the prime rate and the amount
borrowed: 3% over prime for $10,000-$15,000,
2.5% over prime for
$15K to $25K, 2% over prime for loans
$25K to $50K, and prime +1.5%
for over $50,000.
Green Tree Financial Corporation
(800) 851-1367 extension 3692
$5,000 minimum, no maximum. Finance
90% of the total cost for up
to 15 years. Interest rate for
less than $25,000 is currently 13%,
$25K< is 11%.
Other options include: Borrow from
401K finance plan
signature loan from credit union (the
current rate at my CU is
11.75%), or home equity loan (~8.5%).
----------------------------------------------
Q334: Can I take lessons/get my license in my homebuilt?
A. Like so many things in aviation, the answer is, "Yes, but..."
There is no regulations to prevent your
taking lessons or your
flight test in a homebuilt aircraft.
Your ability to do so will
depend on finding an instructor willing
to instruct in a homebuilt,
as well as an Examiner willing to administer
the test in the
aircraft. Neither is automatic,
and you'll have little recourse if
they refuse.
If you would like to take lessons in
your homebuilt, ask around at
your local EAA chapter. Many EAA
members are instructors, and
would probably be more willing.
My local chapters, for instance,
include several CFIs who administer
BFRs in members' homebuilts.
----------------------------------
[end of rec.aviation.homebuilt FAQ]